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The Iberian Peninsula
was occupied successively by different people, from the original Lusitans
to Phoenicians, Romans, Sueves, Celts, Goths, Visigoths and later by North
African Arabs and Berber invaders.
It however was part of Iberia as a whole. Times were hard,
as the Iberian Peninsula was, at the time preceding the birth of Afonso
Henriques, occupied by Moors except for the northern part, of
which the Kingdom of Leon was one of the Christian Kingdoms left.
The French Count Henry (Henrique) of Burgundy was one
of many knights that came to the general aid of the Peninsular Christian
Kingdoms in the Crusading movement to draw back the Moors, and then to
reach Jerusalem.
Henrique de Borgonha, the Portuguese way of naming Henry of
Burgundy, married Dona Teresa, natural daughter of King
Alfonso VI of Leon. As part of the dowry he was given the
County of Portucal, and the castle of Guimarães.
Afonso Henriques was born in 1109 in the city of
Coimbra.
The name Henriques meant Son of
Henrique, his father. In 1109 Alfonso VI of Leon
died and a power struggle begun between Dona Urraca, his legitimate
daughter and Dona Teresa, which led to numerous wars.
However by 1112 Henry of Burgundy died, and his wife
continued the struggle with her half-sister. She has by then sided
with a Galician nobleman, her lover Count of Trava. Such
association made her forget her duties to her son, and most of all, to the
powerful archbishop of
Braga.
This behaviour lead to the rebellion of Afonso Henriques
which would defeat her mother's troops at S. Mamede, very near the
Castle of Guimarães in 1128.
In fact, in 1122 at the very early age of 13, Afonso
Henriques anticipates in seven centuries the act of Napoleon.
He ignored the Cardinal at knighted himself at
Zamora.
The rebellious young count took possession of the Castle of
Guimarães, and from there he departed into fighting for his County,
the Condado Portucalense. Here is a
chronology of facts that will show his wit and will in shaping a
country.
Afonso Henriques was one of the warrior heroes of medieval romance;
his exploits were sung by troubadours throughout south-western Europe, and
even in Africa "ibn Errik" (the son of Henry) was
known and feared.
The annals of his reign are filled with feats among which the
description of the
Valdevez
tournament, in which the Portuguese knights vanquished the
champions of Leon and Castile. Judging by later
deeds of
the Portuguese, it would not be a surprise.
While the contemporary world focuses on History according to
political or merchantilistic interests, my task is to humbly contribute to
make a small but proud country better known.
GUIMARÃES - THE CITY AND THE CASTLE |
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The city of
Guimarães is just about 50 km from Porto and
Unesco has designated it world heritage.
I had the pleasure to revisit what is considered the
birthplace of Portugal.
The city is now one of the chosen places for period movies by
European film makers. You will understand why by viewing the
pictures I took.
THE ENTRANCE TO THE CITY |
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Guimarães
greets the visitor with beautiful gardens so typical of the North.
Two ends of the access main avenue and a side picture.
Below one is quickly led into the historical center, as if
what surrounds us is not as historic as well. |
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TOWARDS THE HISTORICAL CENTER
As we go through narrow and very well cared of narrow streets
reminiscent of past eras, we reach the first square which is the
Oliveira Square. Romanesque architecture greets the visitor
while later houses and manor houses are now transformed into tourist
cafes and other points of attraction. |
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As tourists
sunbathe religious architecture offers itself in its fortified
Romanesque style. |
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Different angles of the church give way to arch that allow
passage to another square of the ancient city where it is difficult
to date houses which are definitely built on top the ruins of their
predecessors or are carefully conserved. |
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At this second square we select one of the many restaurants. We
do look for traditional food as a cultural element. |
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After posing outside we seat inside and order traditional food
and a plate of ham, cheese and olives with bread. The bread is very
rural. The food was peasant's traditional food. After lunch we head
towards the castle looking around. |
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On the way to
it we stop at the Tourist Office in a nicely restored house. There
are plenty. |
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THE CASTLE
As we start to climb towards the castle, I recall it is on top
of a hill, a very good defensive position. |
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The statue of
Afonso Henriques dominates the proximity of the castle, while
we first see the Romanesque chapel where he was baptized, according
to tradition. |
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As the climb continues, the castle reveals itself amongst trees.
I wonder if it had trees before. It is not a big castle. It was
built as early as the 10th. century. The right picture allows to
view how the defenders looked down in case of a siege. |
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The entrance is through this not very large door. Once inside it
is possible to view that walking near the entrance or around the
open air areas was not an easy task with the rough stones. The
center picture shows the missing wooden floors and also a fireplace
is visible in the center picture. |
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The guards walk adjacent to the castle walls is wide and would
allow for troops movement. Tourists do not understand that they
better take one staircase to go up and another down. Me and my son
decide to visit the tower in the center. |
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We climb very steep stairways to different levels inside. The
center picture shows my son climbing up the final part leading
outside. It is extremely steep, and it would take proficiency to get
outside armed and with armour. Then, outside the wind is very
strong, so strong it made my ears hurt and gave me loss of
balance. |
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However the
city of Guimarães offers itself to a wide view from the tower. It is
not a large castle. But from here Afonso Henriques and
possibly his 300 odd men started to build a country. My country,
small but like all others, made of some very brave men who, in this
case, were the first to sail as far as Japan, in little nutshells.
Here is my homage. |
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