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It is known
that the most difficult piece of clothing to manufacture is the man's
jacket. The reason is because it incorporates the need for technical
knowledge, mainly how to cut properly, and not only in anatomical
terms but in the understanding of the material's weave, the way it reacts,
and all the new technical developments.
By exalting the qualities of my manufacturing I am not, by no
means, depreciating other local manufacturers. The issue is totally
different.
First off, a designer will require the best work for his design,
which is obvious. Second, uniform makers look for cheap workmanship
in order to compete in price, not looking on quality.
Third is the fact that most clients ignore how a suit is made, so
that most of the time what is wrong is taken as good.
A BRIEF OVERVIEW
I shall hereby describe briefly what is correct and incorrect in a
jacket, as an example.
1.Lighteness
A jacket should be light and comfortable. This can only be achieved
through correct cutting as the main basis for the following steps. An
improperly cut jacket will show through, and the layers of underlining
that most local tailors and uniform makers use only serves to camouflage
that lack of knowledge in cutting. Therefore if one inspects a locally
made jacket, look for the chest-shoulder area and see how stiff and heavy
it is.
2.Semi-Industrial
Traditional underlining is a strange body to the suit. It is a
kind of a second skin detached from the first skin, the material. Only
first class tailors know how to make this successfully with skilled
workers and good cutting. But traditional underlining takes time.
Having been exposed and worked in two different Portuguese men's clothing
factories, I have applied all the techniques used in modern construction
of a jacket, both for men and women. The main secret is using a German
heath glued underlining.
That way the second skin will become one with the first and will support
it where it need to be.
3.Final Result
Having very briefly described the more than 200 technical operations
that a proper jacket is required before one can call it finished, I shall
say that my jackets not only obey all proper rules of manufacture but, as
a result, they display a resulting quality: very confortable and light
feeling when worn. This is very evident, once worn. After all uniforms are
not different (should not be) from other jackets.
No cost saving is used on these, yet they are affordable and durable.
It is possible to view a sample of a jacket front to see how it is
manufactured.
Yet, the price is very affordable if compared to well known tailors. I
must specify that I am by no means a uniform maker, so the quality of my
product is not aimed at that price range, nor do I seek cheap labor.
Below is the price list for the manufacturing of all pieces. I do
reccomend a vest as opposed to a wool pull-over because it is more elegant
and the cutting will not hurt the general look of the uniform, specially
ladies wearing the scarf. |
