Well, to start, I'm not as concerned with the nationality of the smith (or the national origin of the blade) as much as I am concerned with the tradition that he expresses in his work. That is, as long as the sword is made faithfully and traditionally, nationality is no concern.
I enjoy a position in the Ko-Shoda Ryu school in the Kyu-Kage tradition, and therefore would need to be assured that traditional methods are employed (including the spiritual end of forging a blade). That out of the way, I have to ask as to Mr Clarke's training as a smith - his background and tradition, etc. I'm sure you understand my concerns. Given Bugei's reputation, I will assume that if you stand by Mr. Clarke's ability in this respect, that he is up to the task.

That out of the way, specifications as to the sword follow. Please note that measurements are in traditional notation. It's easier for me to think in terms of traditional measurements (Shyaku-Sun-Bu), but if that is inconvenient, please let me know and I'll work out the conversions ... its relatively easy. Also, please keep in mind that I'm 6'10" tall and 215 pounds, so the disproportionate length of the weapon is more than justified.

Some of this will seem unusual, I'm sure, as the technical specifications as to the mountings and style are more of a hybrid of the "Ito Maki Koshirae" style Tachi (mostly concerning the Saya) and the and "Buke-Zukuri Koshirae" style Katana (moslly in the weapon itself).

Please keep in mind that the sword will be an active one, and should be able to stand the rigors of actual combat - cutting competitions, form competitions, daily use for a few hours, and the like are an active part of my life. Again, I trust Bugei's reputation, but I have to say it anyway ... it given me a warm, fuzzy feeling.

As to the blade -

- The use of tamahagane is an option I leave to the smith's discretion ... while tradition is preferred, the methods employed are more important. Innovation and improvement in materials is just a part of the evolution of the craft. I do tend to like what some smiths have done with the swedish powdered steel, but again, the smith's opinion here is probably more informed than mine.

- Blade should be traditionally folded, 2-8-0 in length, and of the Shobu Zukuri style. The kissaki, however, should be O-kissaki (strong, but not so much that it could be mistaken for Chu-kissaki or Shinogi Zukuri - I may not be making a hell of a lot of sense here ... sorry ... ask for clarification, and I'll try) No Yokote, of course.

- Sori should be subtle ... say no less than 5 bu, but not more than 7 bu

- Nakago should be long. At least 19 Sun but not more than 1 Shakyu in length with two Mekugi-ana (equally spaced, of course) and of the Futsu style, with a Kuri-jiri. Yasurime is at the smith's discretion.

- Mune should be Maru in style

- Hada should be Mokume, but this is not absolute as long as the Hada is subtle, yet active and visible.

- Hamon should be Togari or Choji in style, while the Boshi should turn back somewhat and should follow the Hamon in style and form.

- Hatarake should be visible and lively after the final polish, but again ... this is not absolute (though it would signify a better-made blade).

- Habaki should be in the Yujo or "falling rain" style

- Absolutely no Horimono, though Mei is obviously expected and neccessary.

- Absolutely no Hi or Bo-Hi

As to the tsuka & its furniture -

- Length should be 1-2-0, and Rikko in shape. Same should be black, and Ito should be a "rich" Green (i.e., not olive, teal, or dark, but not as bright as a lime green, for god's sake - "grass green" or "forest green" would be nice - rich is the operative word here). No menuki. The folding technique for the tsuka-ito is entirely up to the smith, keeping in mind that the feel should be uniform along the length of the tsuka.

- The sword is mounted very similarly in fashion to Buke-Zukuri Koshirae style katanas. All the furniture should follow the same pattern, design, materials, look, etc, as if that where not obvious enough. A matte finished pitch black would be nice for all furniture, and what specific metals are used are entirely at the smith's discretion.

- Tsuba should utilize Tombo (dragonfly) patterns in style, and open-worked or pierced.

- Fuchi and Kashira should be likewise in the Tombo design, while the kashira should be a bit longer in style - like the Kabuto-Gane mounted on most Tachi..

- I'm hoping i don't have to say this, but the weapon should be fitted with a full complement of Seppa (I've actually been asked in the past if its neccessary).

- Again, I'm aware that I may not be making a hell of a lot of sense here. If needed, ask for clarification.

As to the saya & its furniture -

- Keeping in mind that the Saya should be closer in style to the Ito-Maki style Tachi Saya, the Ashi should be replaced by two Semegane (these should be bolder in apperarance than the norm - something half way between traditional Ashi, and Semegane - imagine Ashi that are not actually meant to hang - or even imply hanging). The Saya-ito (green to match the tsuka-ito) should NOT come up to the koiguchi, keeping about 1 or 2 sun of distance between the two. I should clarify that the weapon is never worn in the obi or hung from it, but carried in hand. A peculiarity of my particular school.

- Finish should be gloss black, and the tip should be rounded and subtle, mirroring the shape and curve of the Sugata-Kissaki. Definitely not squared off, as is common. Optionally, if the maker finds it aesthetically pleasing, the finish could be a darker green marble pattern - not what is commonly called a "crackle" patttern, however.

- Koiguchi and Sayajiri should match the furniture (fuchi, kashira, tsuba) in style and should use the same elements of design and logic as the Tsuba, Fuchi, and Kashira. The Sayajiri - actually - is purely optional, and I leave the addition or omission of such to the smith's discretion. I think it would look good, but the maker may discover - in conceptualization - that it would be too large or impractical. Creative solutions are welcome.

Conversions to metric? No problem. Just realize that the conversions are aproximate ...

1 Shaku = 31cm (310mm)

1 Sun = 2.6cm (26mm)

1 Bu = .3cm (3mm)

This puts the measurements supplied as follows:

The blade should be roughly 83cm.

The Sori should be 1.5cm and 2.1cm. I'm thinking closer to 2cm - maybe a bit more.

The Nakago should be 10 sun, not 19 ... I'm sorry ...I made a serious typo in the original specifications (wow - a 50cm nakago!) In any case, its 26cm.