CUP HILT SWORD AND SAIL GUARD LEFT HANDER
 

Click on Images for even larger view


THIS IS THE FINAL RENDERING AND LOOK OF THE CUP HILT

This image is the concept of the cup hilt in which all relevant measurements are provided. I am looking for a glossy high polish look on the cup which carries 10 perforations each at 30 angles. The D guard's end is to be inserted inside the pommel.
Note that this is not a traditional or historical rendition, but rather a modernized one, rooted on the same approach of the ATZILUTH's tsuba numerology.

Note the position of the Portuguese Stylized COAT OF ARMS that is rendered through 5 perforations in a cross shape.
The blade is definitely not a diamond section, but rather a very light and fast blade as can be seen here and here from Rainer Daehnhardt's collection of the Portuguese Weaponry.

The effect of the blade's center part is obtained by decarburizing the blade (I believe is bringing it to a boiling point to obtain this texture) after which it will have to be normalized again. The effect can be seen here . This is not a diamond section blade and if it is, than it could be grinded of to be a thinner blade. Then the sides would be polished to a 800 grit.

Click Thumbnail for a larger view. Note the handle is partly black ebony highly polished wood. I included an optional fuller for further lightening of the 85 cm long blade which I hope to be very sharp. I'm not a pump iron person, so I prefer a very light and fast sword, such as this one.
Glenn, you must have someone test it for you for lightness as I know you have strong arms. I would say a very light and strong blade with a heavy pommel for balance.

The cross section will allow for a very thin blade, therefore, light and flexibler.

 

VIEW OF LEFTHANDER SPIKE WITH STYLIZED COAT OF ARMS ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE SAILGUARD OUTER VIEW
VIEW OF LEFTHANDER SPIKE WITH YOUR SIGNATURE

Click Thumbnail for a larger view. I feel that the Lefthander spike, namely the base should need full detail concerning the base where are two holes. The spike is of a rectangular section that will change into a pyramidal four side section, full length being 16 inches.

SAILGUARD OUTER VIEW

The SAILGUARD is clean looking enough for any more simplification. It only requires the 5 cross shaped dots to match the cup hilt. Handle should be of same material as the cup hilt. Ebony I believe.

 
SAILGUARD SWORD UPDATE JULY 15,2002

This Deltin Picture is from where I took the handle measurements. However I find them to be too tight and the cross guard is very close. But since you can place the index finger in front, then it is compensated. But in the Sailguard case, it may be different.

Here you can see that without the index finger in front, the rapier's pommel and cross guard can squeeze the hand.

Here is the illustration of what I was saying. My hand width, shown as in here, is 4.5 inches. Plus a glove, it will need more room. Also the cross guard could act as a thumb rest in the SAILGUARD.

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This is the more comfortable position for the hand, meaning that there must be some room for the index finger to move, since the SAILGUARD will not have the same configuration as the rapier. Also there could be a thumb rest in this position more or less. Counting with the index finger in this position, and with the palm of the hand going over the pommel as we can see, the length required is 5.5 inches as measured by me. However in the sailguard you cannot go over the pommel, so I would recommend 6 inches handle length for the hand to mode front and backwards from the wrist.

Here you see how the thumb is extended more comfortably in another position. Therefore the cross guard in this case is too close according to the initial measurements.

Here I simulated a second cross guard where the thumb could rest as an alternative. The difference between the outer side of the original cross guard and the inner side (where the thumb is touching) of the simulated cross guard is of exactly 1 inch. Now I think everything is into place.

 
 
 
 
 
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